JAKARTA – MULTICOLOURED FAIRYTALE

~Magdalena Gigova ~

Chapter of book Indonesia in eyes of Bulgarians

“If you want to see everything in Indonesia – one lifetime is not enough! With a population of 240 million, dispersed on 17 504 islands, it is clear why. You have to choose between the mega polis Jakarta, to enjoy the piece of paradise – called Bali, or to plunge among the unique coral plantations on the Maluku islands. Maybe you will be attracted by the exotic: the wild tribes and former cannibals on Papua, the birthplace of the biggest lizard in the world – the merciless poisonous Komodo dragon on the Komodo islands, or to have a glimpse on the orangutans on Borneo”

Indonesia is the biggest archipelago in the world with its 30 groups of islands. The capital Jakarta is a 13-million mega polis, breathless from its traffic. Some people travel two-three hours to their working place and vice versa. But the Indonesians manage with the traffic jams in two ways: the first is “3 in 1” and means that on a working day it is forbidden for cars with less than three persons inside. Neighbors, friends, occasional companions make groups. Otherwise it is sure that at some traffic light they will make a photo of you and will charge you with a fierce fine. The other salvation is “Trans-Jakarta” – the road cleaned especially for the speedy buses. And it does not come to anybody’s mind to avail himself of this part of the road, higher with about 20 m. The stops are on a meter and a half height, as well as the doors of the buses. In difference with the other cities with 13 million citizens, Jakarta breaths with much greenery on all the 650 km2 on which it is spreading.

Jakarta under the wings of Garuda

 Above them is towering the national monument. This is 132-meter tower, from the roof of which are opened wonderful sights. In its base is opened a golden gate under the sounds of the Indonesian anthem, in order the visitors to see the document of creating the contemporary state with the signature of President Sukarno. A modest piece of paper, with a text typed on an archive typewriter, with a signature and stamp. Garuda is the golden eagle-like bird, symbol of the country and its beaky profile is watching from all the wall-panels. And from the terrace the glance seizes sky scrapers and parks kilometers around. The whole tower is surrounded by stone bas reliefs, which are telling with their super realistic figures scenes from the history and way of life of Indonesia. From them we learn not only about heroes and commanders, but also that in order to become a man the Indonesian had to jump over a rather high pole. In the monument “Monas”, as the tower is called, there is a special room for meditation, in which nobody can enter but only the children of Sukarno, in order to pray with the spirit of their father.
In spite of the 350 years presence of the Dutch, the shorter colonization of the British and French and the cruel raid of the Japanese, the Indonesians celebrate quite peacefully the anniversaries of their “national awakening”, without baring malice.

 From the Netherlands quarter to the fan of life

Therefore the old Netherlands quarter is maintained excellently.  In the museum “Fatahilah” is especially respected the ancient furniture of the former governors, and the nostalgic canal is not anymore navigable, but is being duly cleaned every day. In the courtyard of the museum the infertile women are competing to touch a huge gun, crowned with what the Russians call “kukish” and in Indonesia is considered to be talisman for fertility. For this aim the ladies have to spend the night under the gun. At the other side of Jakarta there is a “male” big rifle, which influences the potentiality better than Viagra. From the expositions in the Indonesian capital the most attractive are the museum with puppets for the theatre of shadows and “Taman Mini” – entertaining park in which each of the provinces of the country is represented with its characteristic house. 

From the first museum you learn that in the performances with the so called wayang (Javanese puppet) or Javanese dolls one actor performs 15 different roles and sometimes is acting 9 hours without stopping. But he has an assistant who helps him to arrange the personages, which are more than 300. 

But he plays systematically “only” with around 120. The helper sticks the puppet / wayang dolls as high as 2-3 m., sometimes higher. The filigree processing of the leather for the 200-year old exhibits has placed “Wayang”, as the museum is called, among the list for the world heritages of UNESCO. The leather is thin and finely cut, as a lace, in order the light to pass through it and the theatre of shadows to be even more effective. I was shocked by the fan of life, created from unbelievably thin, almost transparent wood. For sure at its one side was the paradise and from the other – hell. And each sign has a secret (or evident) symbolic meaning. And almost comic is the figure of GatotKacha, a fairy tale hero, the local version of Superman. When his face is blue he is in good mood, the red façade says that he is furious. The museum is situated in an Anglican church of XVI century, from which are preserved also about ten grave stones of knights, passed away long time ago.

In front of the sanctuary of the dolls there is an endless row of bicycles with plantation helmets on the luggage carriers. Everybody can rent them and circle around the city center, without being disturbed from the ghosts of the Dutch colonizers. By the way the local people joke that for three hundred years the stingy Dutch have built less roads, public building and schools, than the English during their four years (1811-1815) in Indonesia.

The wife of the longest serving Indonesian President – Suharto suggested to create the park “Taman Mini.  The place does not have anything in common with “Europe on palm”, which can be seen in Brussels or “Switzerland in miniature” at Melide. In short – In “Taman Mini” nothing is mini. 

Quite the opposite. Everything is huge, even bigger than the real dimensions. An over-head cable car allows the visitors to see the park, spreading on 1 2km and above. Savages are rowing in pirogues in the middle of a lake, as in Sulawesi. They are even not real, although looking strikingly realistic. A museum, similar to Hindu temple shows the different ethnic groups and is at the same time wonderful   décor for weddings.

A real feast for lovers of antics and authentic souvenirs is Surabaya – a quarter with small shops, in which one could stumble to a treasure and more often – to a real imitation, but he will bring it to his country as a precious souvenir from Jakarta.