JAKARTA – RABBLE, MASSAGE AND HANDICAP

Part of book Indonesia in eyes of Bulgarians

 

 

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reathless from unimaginable traffic streets, markets for antics and exotic fruits, skyscrapers and ancient temples, colonial buildings and entertainment parks, museums and super modern Malls – this is the 13-million Jakarta. But the capital of Indonesia does not depress, although it is huge. The mega polis spreads on 650 sq.km. sunk in  fluffy greenery. And when you become exhausted from the city noise, you can rest with the total pleasure of massage or with the concentrated aristocratism of golf. The Indonesians are crazy about this sport. Their only sorrow is that they do not have a world champion. In exchange their golf playgrounds are abounding. Only around the capital of Jakarta they are more than 30, although some count them as 43. Most of them are according to the world standards and can host without a problem whatever international championship. They are constructed by architects of the caliber of Jack Niklaus (First and Second), Thomson, Rodney Right and Robin Nelson, Robert Trent Jones, Greg Norman, Greham March, the favorite to the Bulgarian golfers Gary Player. The natural relief is used maximally, as is turned into part of the architecture. And the impressiveness is obligatory. Therefore a golf playground, the façade of which strongly reminds the fronton with carriage of Bolshoy Theatre does not shock anybody. The “Indonesian Open” is a tournament with prize fund of $1 million. It is sponsored by the state, and it does not spare means, when the word is for popularizing Indonesia as a tourist destination.

Pantai Indah Kapuk (the so called golf playground PIK) is at the seaside of the island of Java, not far away from Jakarta. The road towards it passes through a luxurious “ghetto for millionaires” – all the rich men from the capital have built themselves palaces along the seaside. Thus they stay in cool and nearer to their favorite sport. The author of PIK Robert Trent Jones has called it “The spirit of the sea”. “My playground not only resembles sea, but it is a sea”, says the architect and underlines with arguments: “Because sometimes the sea is generous and beautiful, other time – with terrible character and creates difficulties. My playground is a test for the capable players, but defies them to show the best of themselves”. The place includes relaxing pools, strategically situated bunkers, built up with local stones. 6048 m., 72 par with cleverly included seaside tropical trees in a park of 80 hectares. Pantai Indah Kapuk is an idyllic place at the sea coast, where the beginners forget about their meager abilities and enjoy the natural water ways and sand bunkers. The design of the golf playground is so innovative that since 1992, when it received the prize Golf Nugget, it is constantly winning prizes. Several times it was declared to be the best in Asia and it is included in The Rolex World’s Top 1000 Golf Courses. Here people can play during the whole year. Well, if the rain season is excluded (from December to March), but even then the downpour is so warm and if it does not prevent seeing the ball, the gracious young kiddies will follow you everywhere with a huge umbrella in hand. By the way, they all are beautiful girls in bright uniforms in green and candy’s pink with perfect English. 

Except playing to one’s heart content, the members and their guests can eat in the club, which offers fantastic view towards the sea and the playground, to swim in the pool with Olympic size, to play tennis or to improve their golf skills on the training field with gravel, bunkers and 7 kinds of greenery. After “Indonesian Open” in July, the golf playground is given to the youth. And as everything else here it is made with a dash. More than 2500 golfers from five selected schools in Jakarta are trained and compete there, until the time of the World youth golf championship, which is hosted by the playground.

You can feel the magic of the Indonesian massage in the small cabins, where the local people drop in after work, in order to bestir their muscles or at the elegant SPA centers for the high class. Taman sari royal heritage SPA is founded by the hereditary aristocrat MuriatiSadibayo. Raised in the Java royal court, she has adopted the ancient technics of beautifying with traditional herbs and applies them in all the 30 and more branches all over the world. But wherever they are, they obligatory are furnished in the extravagant, but airy style with a lot of woodcarving, which are characteristic for Indonesia. The therapies are many but the most distinguished is called “Royal lulur”. If it is fulfilled with all details the procedure takes 3 hours. Treating the body with local herbs and yogurt is described for the first time during the 17^th century in North Java, but probably comes from the antiquity. If translated the words mean “wrapped skin” and in the past it was an obligatory ritual for the bride before the wedding. It was done every day for a week before the ceremony, in order the bride to be with a silky skin possibly the cleanest and ready for conception in the very first nuptial night. The therapy prolongs the beauty and youth, making the skin soft and shining. The surrounding atmosphere is also royal. An amiable small Balinese woman makes massage of the feet for welcome. Presses some points by finger with a whole bunch of small sticks and only from this she discovers all your aches. The essence of the cleaning of dead cells is the exfoliating lulur – scrub from rice dust, local herbs (yellow color) and ethereal body oil. You start shivering   in spite of the 30 degrees outside. It turns out to be the obligatory effect of the cooling seaweed Marine Algae. You feel as if the skin becomes smaller for you. The lulur hardens scorches and slightly cracks. When it dries completely, they are brushing you off. And you see how the dead skin is leaving you. Two deft Balinese girls start pouring you with a mixture of yogurt and fresh mint. This has to convert your body into a clean radiance, while you are waiting the same procedure (in a softer form) for the face. It ends with a massage on the “reflex zones”, which means acupressure on special points on the chin, eyebrows and around the nose. Thus the stress is gone, if not forever, at least for long. The Jacuzzi is “boiling” already, filled with fresh rose petals. You are splashing into it in order to wash off the yogurt, and totally relax before the 1 hour Indonesian massage. It is mostly with a whole palm. In the first part it is on dry skin, and in the second –with ethereal oils and herbs. The pressure is on the direction of the blood streams, and the aim – to unlock a knot on the body. At the end you simply do not want to stand up.

And when you have had enough of spoiling, on your way back to Jakarta you could drop in for a drink on the 56^th floor of SKYE bar. The lift will raise you for less than 2 minutes to the terrace under the stars, and from there the night view toward the Indonesian capital will leave you breathless.